I’m surfing the giant life wave.
I think there just needs to be an emotional attachment to the surfer, however you get that, so that, when you watch the surfing, you can relate to that person, or you’re rooting for them, in a way.
Surfing is my religion, if I have one.
I did ‘Echo Beach,’ a surfing drama that meant I was often topless. Next came ‘Demons,’ and the opening sequence had me in my boxer shorts; and then there was a scene in ‘Trinity’ with me walking around in boxer shorts. It was only one scene in each series.
I discovered surfing, which I absolutely fell in love with. That feels good and kind of keeps your body aligned, so does the salt water.
Living in Sydney, I’ve taken the chance to start surfing again. One of my best memories of growing up is catching my first proper wave and surfing across it and my brother cheering at me from the shore.
When I’m not surfing or sailing, I am to be found at the harbour working on my boat.
I read the papers, I surf the Web. At the beginning of the year, I try to see at least two episodes of every show on our network. Am I surfing? All the time. I’m aware of the landscape. I’m a competitor, so I have to know whom I’m competing with.
Surfing is such an amazing concept. You’re taking on Nature with a little stick and saying, ‘I’m gonna ride you!’ And a lot of times Nature says, ‘No you’re not!’ and crashes you to the bottom.
I started surfing at 10.
To convince people to back your idea, you’ve got to sell it to yourself and know when it’s the moment. Sometimes that means waiting. It’s like surfing. You don’t create energy, you just harvest energy already out there.
All I care about, to be honest, is surfing. I love surfing more than anything. To me, there’s nothing like that.
I was surfing the Internet, and I came across a school in Atlanta where you could learn how to climb trees with ropes the way the pros do. It sounded terrific, and so I went down there, and I began to learn these kind of rarified techniques for how you get up and down trees while using special ropes and gear.
Surfing soothes me, it’s always been a kind of Zen experience for me. The ocean is so magnificent, peaceful, and awesome. The rest of the world disappears for me when I’m on a wave.
I love surfing more than cricket, more interesting and you meet great people.
I’ve committed to surfing the rest of my life.
I love the beach; I grew up on the Baltic Sea. I love the beach. I love the water. I love surfing and swimming.
My hobbies are linked to the way I want to play soccer. I want to do different action things, like kite surfing, snowboarding, mountain biking, freeriding with skis. I like these sports in my free time and it could be a big link with how I want to play soccer.
Surfing makes me happy, so that’s just what I’m going to keep doing.
I come to Maui and go surfing, standup paddling, slacklining, swimming, and free-diving.
I grew up in the Midwest, quite far from any ocean or any beach, a million miles. I think for kids who grew up where I did, the idea of California, surfing and beach life was so exotic and glamorous.
I’ve been doing a lot of different cross-training and kickboxing and Capoeira and kite surfing, and I’ve just really been back to what I consider my original athletic self.
I’m not an adrenaline junkie; I won’t jump out of aeroplanes and I’m afraid of horses. I just love surfing.
People like to watch surfing, but maybe the girls get the wrong kind of promotion and the wrong kind of press. I might be called a feminist for saying it, but it’s like the girls are promoted sexually rather than what they’re achieving.
It’s what I love to do and I’ll never stop surfing.
Now I’m doing more snowboarding but I have to get back into surfing again.
There was one thing I loved a little bit more than surfing – and that was acting.
Whether it’s in America, Quebec, or France, if I can tell a story that takes me out of my comfort zone, then I’m surfing.
Mike Clark, who’s a really amazing surfer, got me back into surfing. I surfed a lot from ’82 to ’86, and then I kind of started slacking.
When you come out of the ocean after surfing all day, loco moco is the best thing you ever tasted.
The first time I tried surfing, we went out in front of Cement City and I just remember falling in love. It just instantly became all I wanted to do.
When you have two busy kids running around the house, returning e-mails is a task, let alone surfing the web.
I read ‘The Seven Spiritual Laws of Success’ every day. The first time I read it, I was 35, depressed, and about to quit surfing.
I grew up in Imperial Beach, surfing and going to the beach – my son plays baseball at the park.
I read a lot of Zen books. And I grew up surfing, so that has always been my escape.
After I made my comeback in 2002 and won the Jaws Tow-In World Cup, the eyes of the surfing world were on me in a way they’d never been before.
I’ve never been good at meditation, but surfing is the closest I’ve ever come to that inner something.
I downloaded a Ricky Gervais podcast once at the persistent urging of a friend and found it funny but distracting – if I’m online, I’m surfing, which means I’m distracted from the podcast. So it’s a form that doesn’t really work for me.
In my 20s, I was body surfing in Spain and the current dragged me out. I was waving at my friends who thought I was messing about, but I was drowning. I managed to swim in on my back but it scarred me.
I’ve long thought that Marco Rubio would make a strong G.O.P. candidate for president. While he was brought into office by surfing on the Tea Party wave, he has proven himself not to be wedded to the frequent lunacy of those folks.
I’m a golfer, and what are the two sports you can do till you drop? Golf and surfing. They’re great for you limber-wise, they’re great for you health-wise, and they put you in sweet locations.
With Crazy Horse, it’s all one big, growing, smoldering sound, and I’m part of it. It’s like gliding, or some sort of natural surfing.
Surfing is my passion because I love being active on the water.
An experience like ‘The West Wing’ is what I would imagine – even though I’ve never done it – that surfing feels like. It’s, like, ‘Whoa! I can just stand up here and ride this without all the anxiety!’
You just keep doing stuff, and one thing evolves into another. Then suddenly it’s like, ‘Oh, wait, I’m here surfing against Kelly Slater and all these guys I grew up watching.’
I’m learning kite surfing. It’s a little surfboard you have on your feet with straps, and you have a big kite like a power glider in the air that pulls you. You don’t need waves to move, and it makes a big spray of water as you go.
I never paid much attention to being Jewish when I was a kid. In fact, I’d say my religion was more surfing than Judaism – that’s what I spent most of my time doing.
When I started, I was 18 and really into punk rock and just wanted the action. Over the years, I’ve gravitated towards the travel and experience around surfing and trying to relay that feeling. Going forward, I’m interested in story-driven and personality-driven themes.
I still feel like my best surfing is ahead of me.
Even though I grew up surfing and sailing in Southern California, I was born horse crazy.
It’s so amazing to just be in the water, surfing with your friends.
Fresh snow is amazing. The board is real different… it floats on the powder and goes really fast. If you’re riding a long board, it’s more like surfing than skiing.
I’ve tried body surfing. It’s nice.
I believe that in music and in a lot of things it’s kind of like surfing, you can have a really big wave sometimes and then you can have a smaller wave.
Surfing waves of water or clouds of powder snow is the best feeling on earth.
In L.A., I like to surf. I went through a phase – I was surfing four days a week. I’m still not good at it; I still spend most of my time falling.
People send you stuff if you say you’re interested in something. I have a tonne of body lotion. So I could mention I was interested in, you know, surfing, and some company would send me a surfboard.
Maybe I was accepted to Harvard only because of my tennis skills, since I definitively had no great academic achievements. I was 17 and only thought about surfing and playing tennis. I had almost never left Rio de Janeiro and had never been to the United States.
